Stories & memories
What the mountains give back
Itineraries fade. These don't. Field notes from our seasons in the valleys, and from the travelers who lived them with us.
Field notes from a family departure · Fairy Meadows, June
Three generations, one meadow, and the mountain that silenced them all
Grandma Renate was the one we worried about. She was also, it turned out, the one we needn't have.
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Field notes from a Baltoro expedition · Concordia, August
The long way to Concordia: fourteen days to the throne room
There is a moment, two hours past Goro II, when the trek stops being about endurance and becomes something closer to ceremony.
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Field notes from blossom season · Hunza, April
Blossom week: when Hunza turns pink and the photographers go quiet
Blossom doesn't arrive in Hunza so much as climb it, village by village, a hundred metres of altitude at a time.
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Field notes from a winter expedition · Khunjerab, February
Tracking shadows: a winter week waiting for the grey ghost
You do not find a snow leopard. You arrange your week so that a snow leopard might consent to be found.
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A photographer from Lisbon · Shandur, July 2025
Dust and drums at Shandur: three days at the top of the polo world
Nobody warned me that the world's highest polo ground would also be the loudest, coldest, happiest place I'd sleep all year.
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A writer from Copenhagen · Hunza, January 2026
Winter morning in Hunza: the valley nobody told me about
Everyone plans Hunza for blossom or autumn gold. I came in January by accident of timing, and I would now defend that accident with my life.
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A music teacher from Montreal · Gulmit, March 2026
The music school of Gulmit: an evening where the old songs live
I have spent twenty years convincing teenagers to practise. In Gulmit I met a room full of them who needed convincing to stop.
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